Destination: Syros

A handshake with Syros, the patrician of the Aegean! Syros has something to offer to everyone, effortlessly, without any intention to impress. It emerges naturally and genuinely. It is an island with urban elegance, deep cultural identity, and a rhythm that balances between relaxation and liveliness. Ermoupolis, the safest port of the complex of the 24 Cycladian islands, is not just their capital, but also their heart.

So, let’s start our tour from here, Ermoupolis.

As we exit the Urban Parrot Maisonette, a few steps away, we reach the most central point of the city, that is Miaoulis Square.

The Townhall dominates on the square, a building with the grandiosity of a palace which was designed by Ernst Ziller and was completed in 1891. Strolling around the city, we come across neoclassical mansions with marble staircases, narrow lanes and squares that exude an air similar to that of European cities.

The city is vibrant throughout the year, and it is an ideal destination for travellers that appreciate architecture, quality food, art and authentic experiences apart from the Cycladic landscape.

Slowly ascending towards the most aristocratic neighbourhood of the island, Vaporia, we will pay a short visit to the historic Apollon Theatre, inspired by the Scala Theatre of Milan. We will return for on opera night, a theatrical performance or a concert.

As we arrive at Vaporia, the Aegean unfolds in front of us offering a variety of choices. We will dive into the blue waters with the imposing St Nicholas Church, patron Saint of the city, hanging like a pendulum over us.

Afterwards, we could opt for a coffee or a drink, some food or a snack for the younger members of the family.

A cultural addition to our Vaporia experience is the Museum of History and Folklore of Lykeion ton Ellinidon nearby.

Walking towards the port, the masts of the resting sailing boats stand out before their next excursion. We enjoy a glass of wine from the local wineries and head to the wharf, where subtly standing is the Art gallery. It extends into four rooms that used to serve as the transit warehouse of the Customs Office. From time to time, it hosts art exhibitions, theatrical performances or concerts on its small stage.

Before we leave the city centre, we will not omit a visit to the Museum of Cycladic Art and the Public library or the Historical Archive, all settled in or near the Townhall.

Last but not least, we will wander around the open-air market where we will get local traditional goods, such as Turkish delights, halva pies, cheeses, capers, sausages with fennel seeds, louza, local wines, liqueurs, tsipouro or ouzo.

It goes without saying that at the end of the day, we will return for the tavernas, cocktail spots or wine bars. What if we have an extra drink? The Urban Parrot Maisonette is around the corner!

And off we go for a swim to one of the village beaches but on our way, close to the city boundaries there two museums, true witnesses of the industrial life on the island, that is the Industrial Museum and the Textile Museum (Hermoupolis Heritage). We will need extra guidance to spot the latter but it is worth it.

Syros is mainly inhabited in the southern part so the beaches are in small distance from each other. Having the clean blue waters in common, each one offers different secrets worth exploring and enjoying.

Azolimnos, just 5km away from the city, is a family beach with plenty of choices for food or coffee while Vari and Achladi follow in close proximity with excellent food and drinks but also, the unique privilege to enjoy it with our feet literally in the water. A little further, about 14km away from the city, we reach Agathopes, a popular and truly lively beach boasting the largest beach club on the island. Nearby, Komito offers water sports and refreshments on the sand! Foinikas, with its traditional coffee house, tavernas, all-day food and drink bar above the yachting pier, bakery and pastry shop, can satisfy all needs and tastes. A little further, we arrive in Galissas with the longest beach on the island! The people here take extra pride in the sunset and the bulky rock that overlooks the bay and guards its safety! It pours into the sea and shines at sunset offering a magnificent view from the little church on its top. On the other side of the rock, we find Armeos a small bay offering privacy and hidden in the rocks, Agios Stefanos is a chapel standing wild and mysterious over the deep blue waters of the Aegean.

At sunset, we will look for the restaurant that will grip us with its exquisite tastes. It is not hard to do! The smells from the kitchen and its name that depicts this time of the day will guide us there.

Moving East, we arrive at Kini. This village goes head to head with Galissas over the most impressive sunset. A fish village with restaurants and tavernas, literally soaked in the sea. Here we find a scale of tastes and prices.

From here we can take a speed boat that will take us to the northern beaches of the island accessible only by sea or on foot. Our final destination is Delfini, which despite being remote and difficult to access because part of the road is still unpaved, a place that we will become our favourite!

Clean, deep waters at a beach that tourism arrived last! An assumed line separates the beach into two parts, one for seclusion and nudism with a trail leading to Kini and the other one for socializing and liveliness.

In the beach bar that harmoniously sets with the landscape, we will enjoy excellent coffee or draft beer, a step away from the sandy beach. And a few more steps away we have its “other half”, a traditional taverna with excellent food from local recipes.

Approaching the end of our tour, we left Ano Syros to be explored last. A medieval settlement that rises on the east hill as we enter the port and emerges in the horizon with the Catholic church of Saint George standing on its top. The settlement of the Catholics, the “Franks”. It is here that the patriarch of rebetiko music, Markos Vamvakaris, was born and was inspired to compose the world famous song “Frangosyriani”. We can surely spot a group of friends singing its lyrics. Except for the museum devoted to Vamvakaris, Ano Syros will lure us to its narrow lanes and may get momentarily lost. But scattered around,  culinary and artistic experiences, shopping opportunities and romantic evenings await with a view that will take our breath away.

 The biggest of all secrets of Syros, however, is in the Northern part where the very few settlements stand to declare the wild side and beauty of the island. We will dare to see for ourselves the magic of the Cycladic islands rising around while tasting local delicacies in Lygero or San Mihalis.